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Which were your favorite celebrity looks this week? Be sure to vote below, and check back on Friday to see which ensemble is the Official patrick Mahomes Super Bowl LVII Champions 2x Super Bowl Champions LIV, LVII 2x Super Bowl MVP Signature T-shirt in other words I will buy this ultimate best dressed of the week.Which looks were your favorite? Cast your vote. One of the tasks of writing a roundup of the spring 2023 couture season is to identify trends. More of those later, but trends are somewhat superfluous to the overarching narrative of the week that just passed, which was about how we perceive reality. There’s no better way to explain the situation than with the title Rene Magritte gave to his most famous painting, The Treachery of Images, (aka Ceci n’est pas une pipe). To put it plainly, we cannot assume that what we see is true. Exhibit one: Schiaparelli’s menagerie, a perfect storm of celebrity and craftsmanship. Unlike the feline protagonist of A Lion in Paris (a gorgeous book by Beatrice Alemagna about a lonely lion who roams the city and goes unnoticed despite his mane and his roar), this was clearly an attention-getting move that leaned more toward the literal or hyperreal than the surrealism the house is known for, though the entirely faux animal heads were in keeping with Elsa Schiaparelli’s penchant for seasonal themes.The Circus collection, 1937. Artwork by Christian Bérard, Vogue, April 1, 1938In February 1938 Schiaparelli presented her famous Circus collection, pieces of which are currently on display in the “Shocking!” Exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Fashion, too, is a traveling show, and this season—at Chanel, Schiaparelli, Armani Privé, and Valentino—ringmasters and circus animals appeared in the collections, as did harlequins and the sad clown Pierrot. There’s no doubt we are living through a challenging and transformative moment, and that fact weighed heavily on some designers’ minds.
“We’re living at a crossroads which makes for anxious times,” Alexandre Vauthier generalized. Iris van Herpen, for her part, got specific, explaining that her presentation was “an ode to the Official patrick Mahomes Super Bowl LVII Champions 2x Super Bowl Champions LIV, LVII 2x Super Bowl MVP Signature T-shirt in other words I will buy this demonstrations in Iran.” In talking to our reviewers many couturiers felt there was something like a moral imperative in creation, as Ronald van der Kemp opined: “As designers we have so much influence on people’s behavior, because fashion is such a force today. We have to use it responsibly, positively as a driver of change.” One way to give viewers and clients a “change” is through escapism. But if Valentino’s Club Couture celebrated the loucheness of nightlife, it also was an extension of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s humanistic approach. “I love the idea of a club, but it’s a club for today,” he said, expanding, I’m “thinking of inclusivity as welcoming people for who they are, and who they want to be. So it’s an invitation to be free to be what you want.”At Christian Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri put a spotlight on Josephine Baker, but rather than focus on the entertainer/activist’s costumes, the designer looked at pictures of Baker at work in Dior suits. The result was a sober collection with a focus on tailoring and the longer hemlines we started seeing at pre-fall. The evening looks, many in lamé, were also relatively restrained.
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